The Spring/Summer 2024 (SS24) fashion season did more than just set the stage for seasonal trends—it challenged the very foundation of what we think clothing is supposed to represent. Gender-fluid fashion, once whispered about on niche blogs and worn proudly in underground clubs, has now become an undeniable presence on global catwalks. From Paris to New York, designers are pushing past gender binaries, not for shock value, but as a deliberate and reflective commentary on today’s evolving identity landscape.
This isn’t simply a case of men wearing skirts or women donning suits. The SS24 runways tell a deeper story—one where garments are stripped of their traditional associations and rebuilt as vehicles for self-expression, free of labels. The lines between masculine and feminine aesthetics are blurring, and the fashion world is no longer asking for permission. It’s moving forward, and fast.
The Rise of the Gender-Fluid Aesthetic
To understand the cultural resonance of this shift, it helps to consider where fashion has been. For centuries, clothing has operated as a coded language—pink for girls, blue for boys; skirts for women, trousers for men. Even as the lines have slowly begun to blur over the decades (consider the evolution of the power suit or the rise of unisex streetwear), SS24 signals something more profound. Designers are no longer just making gender-neutral clothing—they’re dissolving the very concept of gendered design.
On the SS24 runways, this was evident in both subtle and overt ways. British designer Harris Reed sent out silhouettes that merged Victorian opulence with punk sensibility—lace, pearls, and sweeping gowns, worn by models of all genders. Meanwhile, Ludovic de Saint Sernin continued his romantic exploration of body and vulnerability, showcasing sheer fabrics and figure-hugging designs with no regard for the binary. These weren’t just clothes; they were statements.
And it wasn’t just the indie labels. Even major fashion houses like Gucci and Valentino presented collections that leaned into fluidity. Traditional tailoring was subverted with delicate fabrics, while traditionally “feminine” garments like corsets or slip dresses were styled on male bodies, challenging the notion that clothing must reflect a specific gender identity.
More Than A Trend: A Reflection of Societal Shifts
What we’re seeing on the runway mirrors larger cultural movements. Younger generations—particularly Gen Z—are rejecting rigid categories and embracing a more expansive view of gender and identity. A recent Pew Research study noted that a growing number of young adults identify as nonbinary or gender-fluid, and they’re using fashion as a tool to explore and communicate that identity.
Fashion, in its best form, has always been about rebellion and reinvention. It’s a living, breathing reflection of its time. In 2024, with the political and social discourse surrounding gender more visible than ever, fashion is responding in kind. But this isn’t a knee-jerk reaction—it’s a slow-burning revolution, rooted in decades of queer and trans artistry that’s finally getting its mainstream due.
The designers at the forefront of this movement aren’t interested in androgyny in the traditional sense—neutral tones and shapeless garments. Instead, they’re playing with contrast, drama, and provocation. Think delicate lace shirts paired with combat boots, or pearl-studded denim jackets over mesh crop tops. It’s about contradiction, not conformity.
The Power of Presentation
Beyond the garments themselves, the SS24 runways also shifted in how they presented gender. Casting choices were deliberate and inclusive, with models of various gender identities walking side by side. This is more than performative diversity; it’s a structural shift in how beauty and identity are represented. Designers like Collina Strada and Palomo Spain embraced this fully, featuring trans and nonbinary models in leading looks, not as a token gesture but as an integral part of their creative vision.
Hair, makeup, and styling choices further emphasized the deconstruction of gendered aesthetics. Smokey eyes weren’t reserved for women, nor were buzz cuts only seen on men. Accessories were shared across the board—earrings, nail polish, heels, bags—reclaiming their expressive potential without gendered constraints.
In fact, the fluidity on the runway extended to the very choreography of the shows. In several presentations, models were styled and presented without overt gender identifiers. This forced audiences to focus not on who was wearing the clothing, but on what the clothing was saying. The message? Wear what feels true to you.
Commercial Viability and the Industry Shift
Skeptics might dismiss this movement as purely artistic or editorial. After all, it’s easy to assume that what works on the runway doesn’t always translate to retail racks. But the numbers tell a different story. More and more brands are investing in gender-neutral lines, and consumers are responding positively. Major retailers like Nordstrom and ASOS have expanded their unisex offerings, and newer platforms like The Phluid Project are built entirely around the ethos of gender inclusion.
The economics are compelling. Fashion brands that tap into this broader, identity-driven market are reaching a more engaged, socially-conscious consumer base. These buyers aren’t looking for traditional labels—they’re seeking clothing that resonates with who they are or aspire to be.
Moreover, the rise of digital fashion and virtual try-ons is erasing yet another barrier—one where body shape, gender markers, and even physical presence matter less. In this increasingly digital space, fashion becomes even more democratic and imaginative.
A Future Beyond the Binary
SS24 may be remembered as a pivotal moment, not because of any single trend, but because of the collective embrace of something more fundamental: the right to self-expression beyond labels. The future of fashion is not about creating a new uniform; it’s about tearing down the concept of uniformity altogether.
This isn’t to say that gender will disappear from fashion entirely. For many people, dressing in accordance with their gender identity is empowering and validating. The beauty of this moment is that it makes room for everyone—whether you find joy in a tailored suit, a dramatic gown, or something entirely outside those bounds.
Designers are no longer dictating how we should dress based on who we are. They’re asking us who we want to be—and giving us the tools to express it. In doing so, they’re reshaping fashion from a reflection of society into a force that shapes it.
