Hair has always been more than just a personal feature—it’s a canvas for culture, identity, and ornamentation. From ancient Egyptian headdresses to 18th-century powdered wigs, human history is rich with examples of hair as a statement of power, status, or personal style. Among the many forgotten treasures of the past, Victorian haircombs once stood as the pinnacle of decorative hairstyling. Ornate, often hand-carved from tortoiseshell or ivory, and sometimes adorned with gemstones or precious metals, these accessories were works of art that balanced function and aesthetic finesse.
Now, in the 21st century, hair jewelry is experiencing an unexpected—and thrilling—renaissance. Inspired by the intricate designs of the Victorian era but interpreted through a contemporary lens, modern hair jewelry is capturing the attention of designers, stylists, and fashion-forward individuals alike. No longer reserved for weddings or formal occasions, today’s hair adornments celebrate self-expression, heritage, and craftsmanship, all while adding a touch of drama and romance to everyday style.
This essay explores the evolving world of hair jewelry, tracing its historical roots in Victorian haircombs and examining how modern designers are breathing new life into the tradition. It also offers insight into how anyone—regardless of hair type, fashion sensibility, or budget—can embrace this trend and make it their own.
A Brief History: Victorian Haircombs as Status Symbols and Keepsakes
Victorian haircombs were more than mere accessories—they were reflections of the era’s romantic ideals, attention to detail, and societal values. These combs served practical purposes in securing elaborate updos but were also symbolic. Some were mourning pieces, crafted with woven strands of a loved one’s hair, while others were elaborate status symbols worn at the nape or crown to showcase wealth and taste.
Made from materials such as tortoiseshell, horn, jet, and mother-of-pearl, Victorian combs often featured floral or botanical motifs, filigree metalwork, or Art Nouveau-inspired shapes. Women of the time used them as finishing touches to hairstyles that were meticulously arranged and socially scrutinized. It wasn’t just about fashion—it was a ritual of self-presentation.
As times changed and hairstyles became more relaxed in the 20th century, haircombs faded into obscurity. But, like so many things in fashion, what goes out must come back—albeit in a new form.
The Contemporary Comeback: Hair Jewelry for the Modern Muse
What sparked the return of hair jewelry? A mix of nostalgia, maximalist fashion movements, and a growing appreciation for craftsmanship has reignited interest in ornamental hairpieces. Today’s designers, from luxury houses to indie artisans, are channeling the elegance of the Victorian haircomb while reimagining it with modern materials and aesthetics.
This renaissance isn’t just confined to high fashion. Social media platforms, particularly Instagram and Pinterest, have played a huge role in the revival. Hairstylists and influencers showcase inventive ways to wear hairpins, clips, combs, barrettes, and decorative headbands—often pairing them with casual outfits for unexpected visual interest. What was once formal is now versatile; what was once vintage is now vibing with Gen Z and millennials.
Key Elements of Modern Hair Jewelry Design
Modern hair jewelry channels Victorian influences while accommodating the realities of contemporary life. Here are the hallmarks of this emerging trend:
1. Material Innovation
Whereas the Victorians favored tortoiseshell and ivory, modern designers opt for sustainable and ethical alternatives like acetate, resin, gold-plated brass, recycled metals, and even bioplastics. Vegan leather, glass, and even upcycled jewelry components give new life to old materials.
2. Inclusive Designs
Hair jewelry today isn’t just for a narrow beauty standard. Whether your hair is curly, coily, straight, fine, or loc’d, modern combs and clips are made with diverse textures and thicknesses in mind. Brands are crafting hair accessories that function as well as they flourish—designed to grip and glide through various hair types.
3. Versatile Aesthetic
Victorian haircombs were rooted in formality. Today’s iterations, however, swing between high drama and minimalist chic. Think: a single oversized pearl nestled in a matte gold pin; a geometric acetate comb with art-deco curves; a stack of tiny crystal-encrusted clips adorning a sleek ponytail. The aim is elegance that moves effortlessly from day to night.
4. Symbolism and Personal Meaning
Echoing the sentimental value of Victorian mourning combs, many people now wear hair jewelry as a personal emblem. Custom-engraved barrettes, birthstone-encrusted pins, and heirloom-inspired hair sticks transform the accessory into a story—an emotional as well as aesthetic statement.
How to Style Modern Hair Jewelry
You don’t need a formal event or a historical costume to wear hair jewelry. In fact, the beauty of the current trend lies in its adaptability. Here’s how to incorporate it into your everyday (or elevated) style:
For Everyday Glamour
- Slide a gold or tortoiseshell comb into a messy bun for instant polish.
- Use a pearl-accented hairpin to sweep back curtain bangs.
- Stack multiple minimalist clips on one side for a casual, asymmetrical edge.
For Statement Looks
- Try a fan-shaped comb in metallic tones tucked into a sleek chignon.
- Wrap a braid with decorative cuffs or slide-in charms for festival flair.
- Adorn a half-up style with gemstone barrettes in clustered arrangements.
For Cultural and Formal Celebrations
- Incorporate traditional motifs—like lotus flowers, moon shapes, or filigree leaves—into braided styles or updos.
- Pair a modern comb with a sari, hanbok, or kimono for a fusion of old and new.
Shopping Smart: Where to Find Modern Hair Jewelry
Hair jewelry doesn’t have to come with a royal price tag. Here’s where to look depending on your taste and budget:
- Luxury Designers: Jennifer Behr, Lelet NY, and Simone Rocha offer high-end collections that mix old-world glamor with modern flair.
- Independent Makers: Etsy is a treasure trove for handmade hair jewelry, from nature-inspired resin combs to art-nouveau brass hair forks.
- Sustainable Brands: Look for brands like MACHETE (known for eco-friendly acetate) or brands that offer upcycled pieces.
- Fast Fashion with Flair: Zara, Anthropologie, and & Other Stories often carry affordable yet stylish pieces that nod to historical elegance.
Why Now? The Deeper Meaning Behind the Trend
In many ways, the hair jewelry renaissance reflects a cultural yearning for beauty with depth. After years of minimalist fashion and utilitarian style, people are ready for a return to romance, history, and craftsmanship. Much like the Victorian era—an age of innovation, mourning, empire, and art—we live in complex times, and fashion once again serves as a way to anchor ourselves to something poetic.
The resurgence of decorative hairpieces also aligns with a broader cultural shift toward personalization. From curated ear piercings to monogrammed phone cases, people crave individuality in how they adorn themselves. Hair jewelry, especially when it carries symbolic or aesthetic significance, becomes a deeply personal yet visible extension of the self.
